Inspired by recent reporting from Condé Nast Traveler. This is Wandr's own original take and advice for travellers.
Key facts
- Destination: Puglia, Italy
- Rent a car with automatic transmission as the rural roads are narrow and winding
- Visit local markets in Cisternino for fresh burrata and capocollo
- Pack lightweight layers as stone trulli stay naturally cool even in peak summer
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The first time I stepped into a restored trullo in the heart of Puglia’s Valle d’Itria, I didn't immediately notice the architecture. Yes, the signature conical roof was there, rising like a chalky stone sugarplum against the cobalt sky, but it was the silence that caught me off guard. It was a heavy, sweet, countryside silence, broken only by the cicadas and the faint, rhythmic clinking of goat bells somewhere across the olive groves.
For those accustomed to the frantic energy of Rome or the crush of the Amalfi Coast, arriving in the Valle d’Itria feels like someone has gently turned down the volume on the entire world. Staying in a trullo—those ancient, mortarless limestone dwellings that look like something out of a fairytale—is not just about finding a place to sleep. It is about an immersion into a landscape that has remained stubbornly, beautifully resistant to the rapid pace of modern life.
Recently, I’ve noticed a shift in how families are traveling to southern Italy. The urge to "do" Puglia—to hit the beach clubs in Polignano a Mare, chase the sunset in Otranto, and photograph every whitewashed alley in Ostuni—is being replaced by a desire for stillness. We are tired, I think. We want to be together without the distraction of a ticking clock. And there is perhaps no better container for that kind of reconnecting than a 200-year-old stone farmhouse.
Field notes · Puglia
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Sources
- Condé Nast Traveler (original report that inspired this story)
About Mary Mora
Mary Mora is Wandr's Mediterranean travel expert. She covers destinations around the Mediterranean, from Spain, France and Italy to Croatia, Greece, Türkiye and North Africa.
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